AMP - Aceh might not seem the most Instagrammable destination in Indonesia. However, many people overlook that the province is famous for its dazzling and inspiring Islamic imagery and art–as well as for its beautiful vistas and cultural attractions. Banda Aceh is likely to be your point of entry into the province, so let’s start there.
Apart from the city’s famed Baiturrahman Mosque, Banda Aceh has a host of memorable places that you’ll want to show people back home, whether you’re remembering the disaster that struck the province in 2004 at the Tsunami Museum or looking to visit nearly unheard of destinations, such as Taman Sari Gunongan.
Let’s have a closer look at some of these quaint places and then visit some secluded islands. Prepare to update your feed!
Taman Sari Gunongan
Looking like a giant birthday cake with white icing, Taman Sari Gunongan was previously a water park of sorts, where the sultans of Aceh would bathe, swim and relax. Unlike Taman Sari in Jogjakarta, which has become a famous tourist attraction, Taman Sari Gunongan in Banda Aceh is very quiet–almost hidden behind the trees. We went there twice, in the afternoon and midday, and it was empty both times. Located in Sukaramai in Banda Aceh.
There a romantic story behind this beautiful spot. It was built as an expression of love by Sultan Iskandar Muda of Aceh (1607-1636) for his queen, Putri Kamailah of Pahang, Malaysia. The queen used to spend her leisure time in this park whenever she missed her hometown.
PLTD Apung
One can imagine the immense destruction of 2004 tsunami just by looking at this ship. This 2,500-ton, 63-meter-long vessel was an offshore power plant that was carried by the waves five kilometers inland. After the disaster, the ship was abandoned. The local government has since remodeled its interior into a museum. Visitors are welcome to explore. From the view on deck, 20 meters above the ground, we can see Ulee Lhue port and the open sea. Several nearby destroyed houses were not rebuilt, serving as a reminder of the day when the tsunami struck.
“Kerkhof” Cemetery
Located by the Tsunami Museum, the Kerkhof–the word means cemetery in Dutch–is less popular than its neighbor. It’s proof of the resilience of the Acehnese people during the colonial era: More than 2,200 Dutch soldiers are interred here. The place is also known as Kerkhof Peutjut. The latter word in the Acehnese language refers to Pocut, a nickname for Meurah Pupok, the son of Sultan Iskandar Muda, who was buried here way before the arrival of the Dutch. It is said that Meurah Pupok was sentenced to death by his own father for breaking the law.
Sabang and Weh Islands
These spots are amazing for their fantastic beaches. Sabang is a chill, small island where visitors love to relax-and we were no exception. Unlike the Banyak Islands, which require a 3-hour boat ride from the mainland; it takes only 45 minutes on a ferry to cross from Ulee Lheue jetty in Banda Aceh to Balohan jetty in Sabang. Rent a car if you want to visit different beaches during your stay, or go straight to Iboih and spend several relaxing days on this stunning beach.
Aceh Singkil Regency
Aceh Singkil lies to the south of Aceh. Actually, it is much faster to reach the regency from Medan, North Sumatra than Banda Aceh. We did a road trip from Medan to Singkil that took 11 hours, including stops for lunch and picture taking. It was just so scenic along the way, with views offering a combination of hillsides and open fields.
At Pulau Sarok, a jetty in Singkil, you can hop on a traditional boat–or rent one, if you are going with a group of people–and start a boat trip to Balai Island, the most populated island in the Banyak Islands. It’s a unique trip: After the 10-minute mark, we watched the sea change color from brown to blue. It’s where the freshwater from the swamp, the Singkil River and the sea meet.
Banyak Islands
The Banyak Islands are a group of around 80 small islands. There used to be around 99, but some were inundated and submerged following the 2004 tsunami and a more recent earthquake in Nias. The common entry point is via Singkil jetty to Balai island–a journey that took us around three hours on a wooden boat, followed by island hopping to nearby venues, such as Biawak, Palambak, Tailana and Tambudung Islands.
Asok Island
My favorite. It’s a white sandy beach with lines of coconut trees which give a warm welcome as your boat approaches. We spent a fine afternoon napping under the trees with music and cool breeze coming from the ocean. On the other side of the island, the sun was much stronger and the water was shallower so we went for a dip and got tanned.
Aceh Tsunami Museum
Built to commemorate a tragedy, the museum is utterly beautiful, with an architecture that astounds and offering an experience to remember. Walking through the main entrance, we’re led through a small dark corridor. In the background, sounds can be heard: The crash of the waves and the cries of people, resembling the situation when the tsunami hit Aceh.
The design of the museum is irresistible, giving it a spot on the must-see list in Banda Aceh.
Aceh for the Woman Traveler
Visiting Aceh is daunting for women travelers, who have to deal with a host of questions.
“Should I wear a head scarf?” is a big one. So is “Do I have to be covered from head to toe all the time?” as well as “Will people stare at me if I walk with a male companion?”
To help you navigate the nation’s westernmost province, here are some tips based on my experience as a woman traveler who loves to dress casually.
When visiting Banda Aceh and most of Aceh, women are expected to dress “modestly”. This means a long skirt or pants, with a long sleeved shirt or t-shirt. Women are expected to cover their heads with something like a shawl or a pashmina.
Women can dress more casually on the beaches of Aceh’s small islands, as in Sabang or the Banyak Islands. However, covering up with a sarong or something similar is advisable when visiting local residents or going to the market.
One friend in Banda Aceh told me that local residents can recognize visitors and they are less strict with guests in terms of dress.
Women traveling with male companions are OK, as long as there are no public displays of affection.
The province’s famed coffee stalls are normally men’s territory. It’s uncommon for women to stop in, as those are places for men to chat and get involved in political banter. The last time I visited Banda Aceh, I was part of a group of three men and three women. Every time we walked into a coffee stall, everyone would glance at us. But the stare lasted less than five seconds. They then recognized us as visitors and everything went as usual.
Despite the image of Aceh as region under strict Sharia law, the province has a stunning natural environment, rich culture, delicious food and, above all, a warm and friendly people. So pack your bag and go! —Swastika Nohara
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